DISCLAIMER:
We are not responsible for anything wrong (including electric shocks, malfunctions, fires, accidents involving a soldering iron) that might happen during the assembly of the kit. Everything you do while assembling the kit is at your own risks.
Bill of material:  (including resistor color code)
Resistors:
-1X 100R  : Brown, Black, Black, Black, Brown 
-4X 220R  : Red, Red, Black, Black, Brown
 -2X 470R  : Yellow, Violet, Black, Black, Brown
-2X 1K  :Brown, Brown, Black, Brown, Brown
-2X 2,2K  : Red, Red, Black, Brown, Brown
-3X 2,7K  :Red, Violet, Black, Brown, Brown
-2X4,7K  : Yellow, Violet, Black, Brown, Brown
-1X 33K  : Orange, Orange, Black, Red, Brown
-5X 47K  : Yellow, Violet, Black, Red, Brown
-1X 220K  : Red, Red, Black, Orange, Brown
-1X 240K  : Red, Yellow, Black, Orange, Brown
-1X 330K  : Orange, Orange, Black, Orange, Brown
-1X 1M  : Brown, Black, Black, Yellow, Brown

Capacitors
-2X 12pF  (Labelled 12)
-1X 10 nF (Labelled 103)
-3X 100nF (Labelled 104)
-2X 470nF (Labelled 474)


Diodes  :
-1X 1N4148
-2X 1N4007
-4X Zener 5,1V (Labelled 5,1 or 1N4733)

LED  :
-1X 5mm Violet
-1X 3mm Red
-1X RGB strip

Quartz  : 16 MHz

IC:
-1X Atmega 328P +Socket 28 pin
-1X DAC0800 + Socket 16 pin
-1X 74HC595 + Socket 16 pin
-1X TL074 + Socket 14 pin

Transistors: -3X 2N3904

Potentiometers: -4X 10K B, Vertical Mount

Switchs   : -2x Push Button Momentary Switch ON/OFF 


Pin headers  :
-2 X 5 pin    2,54mm ( 10 pins Eurorack connect
-2X 8 pin 2,54mm male + -2X 8 pin 2,54mm (Inter cards connectors)
-4x Erthenvar mono jacks 3,5mm without nuts.

Miscelaneous:
-1x Splittable PCB   -1x 8 HP Acryl Panel
-3x 10mm Hex spacer M3
-3X Screw M3x 8mm + 3X 5mm M3
-1X Power Ribbon Cable 16Pins to 16Pins
-5X Jack 3,5mm Vertical

Assembly instructions (Shibuya, batch #1, Reds Dual PCB)

Ready for populating the main board?

























Step 1: 
The Diodes and IC sockets:
Solder the two polarized diodes 1N4007, the small signal diode 1N4148 and the 4X Zener Diodes (Labelled 5,1 or 1N4733) Pay attention to their orientation since they're polarized components. 
Then solder the IC sockets. Your board needs to be perfectly horizontal so you can solder them properly.



























Step 2:
The 16 MhZ Quartz:





























Step 3:
The Resistors:
Some resistors must be vertical mounted. 
First, put the 1X 100R  : Brown, Black, Black, Black, Brown  and the 4X 220R  : Red, Red, Black, Black, Brown. Don’t mix up the 220r with the 220k or 100R with 1K!!!








































And now the 2X 470R  : Yellow, Violet, Black, Black, Brown, the 2X 1K  :Brown,  Black, Black, Brown, Brown and 2X 2,2K  : Red, Red, Black, Brown, Brown.









































The 3X 2,7K  :Red, Violet, Black, Brown, Brown, 2X4,7K  : Yellow, Violet, Black, Brown Brown, 1X 33K  : Orange, Orange, Black, Red, Brown









































And finally, the 5X 47K  : Yellow, Violet, Black, Red, Brown, 1X 220K  : Red, Red, Black, Orange, Brown, 1X 240K  : Red, Yellow, Black, Orange, Brown, 1X 330K  : Orange, Orange, Black, Orange, Brown, and 1X 1M  : Brown, Black, Black, Yellow, Brown










































Step 4:
The capacitors:
They are non-polarized. First, solder the 2X 12pF  (Labelled 12) and 2X 470nF (Labelled 474). 























































Then 1X 10 nF (Labelled 103) and 3X 100nF (Labelled 104). Don’t mixed up the 1nF and the 100nF!!!!










































Step 5:
Transistors:

Solder the three 2N3904. Be careful, they are polarized. 


















Step 6:
The Push Button Switchs and 5mm LED:
Mount these two switches. Ensure they snap-in fully into the holes and are flat against the PCB. Solder one of the side pads, and check if they are nicely aligned. Solder one other side pad and re-check the alignment. Finish soldering the 2 other pads
 Work quickly! No more than 3 seconds per joint! If you must resolder a joint, allow Switchs to cool for 20 seconds.


Solder the 5mm LED (Don’t mixed up with the 3mm Led). Pay attention to the orientation since they're polarized components. Flat side on the footprint= Short Leg.










































Step 7:

Eurorack bus connector:
Pay attention to the correct orientation. When the pin headers are soldered, immediately verify the solder quality & if you didn't forget any pin.




















Step 8:
Potentiometers:

The potentiometers are pc-vertical mounted. 
The full kits are supply with Alpha Potentiometers

Ensure they snap-in fully into the holes and are flat against the PCB. Solder the middle pads, and check if the potentiometers are nicely aligned. Solder the others pads. 







































Step 9:

The PCB connectors:
Solder the male pin headers on the back of the right PCb and the female on the Left PCB’s back. The meaning is assembly later the PCBs back to back.




































Step 10:
Separate the boards
Do not be afraid, just bend and break








































Step 11:
Assembly the  boards and Solder of the 3mm LED.
Before assembly the PCBs back to back, introduce the Legs of the 3mm LED on the pad, BUT don’t solder them yet.
The Led net to appear trough a hole on PCB Left top’s. Pay attention to the orientation, flat side on the footprint= Short Leg. After assembly the Male to female, solder the Led.
















































































Step 12:
Jacks:
Solder the 4 X mono 3,5mm vertical mount switched Jacks. Solder only one pin of each socket to hold it in place, then you can check for correct alignment before soldering the other pins. The ground pads from the jacks need to be wired with a small component’s leg. Start with the two jack from push button and finished by the three others.






































































Step 13:
Hex spacers:

Mount the 3X Hex spacer with the 8mm blacks + 5mm withe screws. 2 Spacers are dedicated to the panel mounting, 1another one need to be located between the two boards.










































Step 14:
IC:

Insert carefully the Microcontroller on the Dip20, the TL074 on Dip14 sockets and the 74HC595 and the DAC0800 on the DIP16 sockets. Take care to the orientation symbol.
















































































Step 14:
Soldering the RGB LED strip:

Use the Pads labelled V+, B, G ,R to powered your RGB LED ribbon.
Solder 4 wires between the board and the stripe on the corresponding pads. All the pads are labelled. For example, solder «V+» on the main board, to «V+» on the Stripe. You can use any kind of wire. 

Important note:
The most difficult step of the assembly are the wiring of the RGB LED. The most common mistake is the inversion of the pads due the manufacturers specifics pinout. All the RGB Ribbon haven't the same pinout. For example, the RGB Stripes provide with Batch #1 are labelled «+12V-G-R-B», but you can find other labelled «V+-B-G-R» or «V+R-G-B»

But basically, if you respect the +12V pad and mixed up the RGB pads, only the color match will be wrong but the RGB stripes won’t be damaged ;)

The kit is provided with two small 5cm ribbon. If you plan to connect your modules to a Razmasynth RGB Rack ear side with 2X 20cm or big 5M ribbon, try the small stripes first.

If you need to wire 2 or more stripes, wire they’re dedicated pads, as the example above.









































































































Step 16:
Panel mounting:
Mount the 2 flat screws on the 2 hex spacers. Connect the flat ribbon power wire. The -12V is labelled «Stripe». No Panic if you reverse the stripe: All Razmasynth modules are protected against reversed polarity.


















Now Shibuya is ready!!!

Step 17: 
Connect Shibuya to to acryl Ears sides with build-in Leds.












Hack your own Shibuya LFO:

Arduino programming:

Remove carefully the uC. If you accidentally burn your chip, your can replace easily by any Arduino Uno chip (Atmega328P) You can found the code down this page.

Releases:
-Shibuya revD: Original released (red dual PCBs) 7-11-2015, 30 pieces.
-Shibuya RevE: 40 pieces 11-2-2015

Shibuya History & Credits:

-The LFO and the colored blinking rack was born in Tokyo after a crazy night lost in Shibuya with Kotaro Mitsuno, Russel Haswell and Justyna from Razmasynth crew.

The entire code was designed by my buddy Kévin Tkac. We choose to use an old DAC0800 and a shift register, due the particular grain produced by the wavetables, especially on the «Random Number» pattern. I’m really grateful to him to achieved and highly documented the code. Thank’s Bro!!!!
Shibuya-Rev247ShibuyaBuild_files/Shibuya_rev247.zip