Read this first:

DU-NTSC and Telewizor V2 share the same hardware and the building plan. There are only three difference between the two modules:

-DU-NTSC has 1 diodes named D3 and a 3.5mm jack connector for the Gate Input more than Telewizor V2 and however has a momentary switch in less.






































DISCLAIMER:

We are not responsible for anything wrong (including electric shocks, malfunctions, fires, accidents involving a soldering iron) that might happen during the assembly of the kit. Everything you do while assembling the kit is at your own risks.







SMD Resistors:

-1x 390r (R9) labelled 3900

-1x 750r (R8) labelled 7500

-1x 470r (R7) labelled 4700

-4x 2,2k (R11- R14- R15 -R16) labelled 222

-3x 47K (R1- R2- R3) labelled 4702

-2x 220K (R4-R6) labelled 2203


Capacitors:

-3x 470nF labelled 474

-1x 100uF


Diodes:

-2x 1N4007 (D1- D2)

-1x 1N4148 (D3)


Led:

-1x 3mm red


-iC:

-1x Arduino Nano

-1x LM7805 (TO220 package)

-1x TL074 CDR (SMD package)


Trimmer:

-2x 50K Lin


Switchs:

-1x Push Button Latching Switch ON/OFF 8x8mm + 1x White cap

-3x Push Button Momentary Switch ON/OFF 8x8mm + 3x Blacks caps



Pin headers:

-2x 5 pin 2,54mm (10 pins Eurorack connector)

-2x 15 Pin 2.54mm Single Row Right Angle Female Pin Header


Miscelaneous:


-2x Black PCB + 1X Clear Acryl Panel

-4x 12mm Hex spacer M3

-8x Screw M3x 8mm

-1x Power Ribbon cable 16p to 10p


-2x Mono Jack 3,5

-2x RCA Phono connectors

-1x DC power connector


-Rubber tape

-Rainbow wire


3,5 LCD Display:












Assembly instructions (Telewizor V2 revC), DU-NTSC:


Step 1: Check your display!!!!



You will facilitate the entire build and avoid stress and disappointment now testing the display as follows:


Clip carefully the Driver flat ribbon on the Display port (number of pin and drivers board may vary from Suppliers). Powered the display with +9 or +12V (You can use a 9V battery, but basically the display will turn off after 7/10 minutes of use and totally drain off the battery)

-Connect a composite signal on AV1 port (Any composite signal from DVD player, video generator, video games etc...)

-Connect now another composite signal on AV2: The display will automatically switch and display the signal applied on AV2!!! This is a really important function for Telewizor. If this does not work, Telewizor will only display the internal Video Generator and no external signal.

If you have an issue, try to connect a composite signal on AV2 first, then on AV1 and check if switched. I’ve noticed few cheap Drivers board with reversed AV1/AV2 silkscreen (Not the boards from trusted Sellers).


Usually, the Drivers boards are labelled as is:











































Ready for populating the main board?

Step 1: 

The SMD resistors:

Only one rule for soldering CMS: Apply solder  on the first pad only, solder the first leg of the component, and then directly solder the rest. Using solder flux for any SMD part of Telewizor (Resistors, Op-amp, right angle female pin headers) prevent the troubles as solder bridge and insufficient solder.


The resistors have a value code, pay attention to not mix 470r and 47K or 2,2K and 220K.:


-1x 390r (R9) labelled 3900

-1x 750r (R8) labelled 7500

-1x 470r (R7) labelled 4700

-4x 2,2k (R11- R14- R15 -R16) labelled 222

-3x 47K (R1- R2- R3) labelled 4702

-2x 220K (R4-R6) labelled 2203







































Step 2: 

The SMD Op-Amp:

Apply solder  on the first pad only, solder the first leg of the component, and then directly solder the 7 others. Use Flux ;) Pay attention to his orientation since it’s a polarized component.


















































Step 3:

The capacitors:

-The 3x 470nF labelled 474 are not polarized


-Then the trough holes 100uF. PLEASE BEWARE THE POLARIZATION (See pic below for correct implementation)





























Step 4:

The Diodes:

Solder the two polarized diodes 1N4007 D1 and D2, pay attention to their orientation since they're polarized components. And D3 for DU-NTSC only.


Telewizor V2:















DU-NTSC:















Step 5:

Trimmers:

Solder first the trimmer’s midle pad, adjust the trim and solder quickly the two others. The PCB is labelled «100K» because you can use 50 to 100K lin trimmers, but 50K offered a finest tune.





































Step 6:

The 5V regulator:

Take care to his orientation, it’s a polarized component.
































Step 7:

The Eurorack Power Bus connector:

When the pin headers are soldered, immediately verify the solder quality & if you didn't forget any pin.





































Step 8:

The Arduino board:

Solder the 2 x 15 pin header on the board, immediately verify the solder quality & if you didn't forget any pin. Take care to the solder side!!!!!

































Now plug the Arduino Nano board on the female pin headers as is (right angles pins turned to the external sides)




















And now, the most difficult part of the build, soldering the Arduino Nano female socket to the board:


-Apply flux on all the pads. Then solder the first pad only, solder the first leg of the right angle pin header, center the Uno and apply solder on both pads. Remove the Uno and check every solder.





































































Step 9:

The Led:

Solder the 3mm LED. Pay attention to the orientation since they're polarized components. Flat side on the footprint= Short Leg.



Step 10:

The Push Button Switchs:

There are two categories: 1 Latching (Blue and white package or labelled «M», latching sounds «Click, click») and 3x Momentary (Black and white package or blue and white). DU-NTSC has only two momentary switchs.

Mount these 4 switches. Ensure they snap-in fully into the holes and are flat against the PCB. Solder the middle side pads, and check if they are nicely aligned. Solder the other middle side pads and re-check the alignment. Finish soldering the 4 other pads
Work quickly! No more than 3 seconds per joint! If you must resolder a joint, allow Switchs to cool for 20 seconds.




























































Step 11:

Connectors:

Start with the two RCA connector. Screw it on the panel. No worry if you can’t screw the RCA connector with the small round nuts ( I also have large fingers and I let them aside).Then screw the Power connector as is.

After that, the ground pad from the jack need to be wired with a small component’s leg as is, and screwed to the panel as is:


















































Step 12:

The LCD Screen:

Now remove the adhesive transparent sheet from the Screen. Use two pieces of double-sided tape and glue them up and down from the screen. Check on the other side if you are in front, then glue your screen to the black PCB mask






























































Now, glue the small square tape on the back of the screen. This will be used for bonding the Driver’s PCB on the Screen’s back.





















If you use the Display/Driver from Alie Express Supllier, cut properly the board’s right side (before connecting the flat wire from Display)



























Clip carefully the Driver flat ribbon on the Display port (number of pin and drivers board may vary from Suppliers) and bond the Driver’s PCB to the Screen’s back.



































Now, removed the wired connectors from supplier because it’s time to connect the Display to the main PCB (And you’re pretty closed from the build’s end).


Solder 4 wires between the two boards on the corresponding pads. All the pads are labelled. For example, solder «AV 1» on the main board, to «AV1» on the Shield board. You can use any kind of wire. If the Driver’s board isn’t labelled test your screen as described on step 1, using this pics:




































To solder without mistake the wire, solder them one by one. At first the 12V wire, double check!!! Second, the ground wire and double check the silkscreen etc...



Solder the PCB labelled V2 revC as This (Telewizor batch#1 from June 2016)





































For Telewizor v2 revD, solder the wire step by step as is:






























































Step 13:

Panel assembly:

Now put the 4 caps to the Push Buttons and assembly the panel as is, screwed to the back.

Solder wires between the two boards on the corresponding pads. «Display IN» to «AV2 IN» , «Video Out» to «C-Out» (C-out as Composite Out). Don’t forget to solder the 3.5 jack’s pads and his small ground pad!!! (Two 3.5 jack for DU-NTSC) The pads labelled DC-9V are optionals, late Telewizor V2 and DU-NTSC doesn’t have a dedicated DC connector’s hole on the front panel.




































































Important: When assembly, check if any pads from main PCB don’t touch anything on the Driver’s PCB. If the 4 solder pads are touching some components from the driver board’s, put a a piece of rubber tape or plastic sheet to isolate the pads and check if you are really using 12mm spacers.






































Step 14:

Now you finished the build, it’s time to calibrating your device:

Connect your Arduino Nano to the board, USB closed from the board’s side.

Powered now Telewizor by your modular power bus, the white stripe on the Eurorack connector figure the -12V, respect the polarity, but no worry if you reverse the flat ribbon, all the Razmasynth modules are protected against reversed polarity.


Important note: The external DC 9V allows you to power Telewizor without modular, using a 9V AC adapter.

Using an external power adapter, Telewizor can only be used as a display, not as a Video Generator or Oscilloscope, because this functions requires a bipolar power supply from modular. So, for calibrating Telewizor, you must connect the power ribbon to the modular. Another warning, don’t power Telewizor by the «Power Bus» and the external «DC In» at the same time!!! (And don’t email me because you get a lot of funny little smell







































































Push the Power push button, the red Led will bright and after 4/5 seconds (depending the Display Driver) the Razmasynth logo will appear on the screen and display the first program!!! Congrats your device work, it’s time now to calibrate your Telewizor! Note: No Razmasynth Logo on the DU-NTSC at start, I know, it’s a shame!!!




























Telewizor is designed to display a bipolar CV from +5V to -5V.

Select the OScilloscope sub-program with the menu button.

The «A» button change the sampling rate and allow you to display Audio signals from low frequency

The «B» button change the Display Zoom from 1X to 4X (Not on DU-NTSC)


Now, the easiest way to calibrated your device is using a +/-5V Audio signal from VCO or LFO patched on the Telewizor CV IN.

On the Telewizor back, turn the «Offset» trimmer to height of your signal. Turn the «Att» trimmer (for Attenuverter) to increase or decrease you signal size. The perfect match is obtained when your signal is entirelly displayed, without flatted edges.

Note: The oscilloscope program from DU NTSC don’t display a frame around the trace, no frequency































You can check some building steps on this vids:






























Step 15:

Hack Me!!!!!


Now your Telewizor is ready, but you probably want to hack your device, no?


-Telewizor’s analog section contain 2 Free Buffer, pre-wired. Just connect In and Out. This buffer used 2 cells of the TL074. It’s a little bit slow to drive video signal, but perfect if you want to add some CV features to your devices.

Nobody thinks to turn Telewizor into 8 bits video game console?


Or replace the TL O74 by a faster Op-Amp and buffer the the composite signal form the Arduino (The TL074 is bipolar supplied (+/-12V), check the schematic for pinout)


-Hack the code!!!!
























The entire code is based to the library:  


It’s a really exciting library. And we really had fun writing these code segments. I would particularly like to thank my friend Kévin Tkac for all the time he spent writing the basis of the OS Razmasynth, especially a «Captain Blood» graphical function!!!!


You can find the last revision of the code here, the TV Out libray and the TV Font. We used Arduino IDE 1.0.6

and Arduino Nano. This Chinese Nano are currently using CH341G serial/usb chip. If you’re unable to upload a new code, just upload the driver’s chip from Here


If you cook you’re own Telewizor or DU-NTSC code, feel free to send me, I will be really happy to share it on this site!!!!!


This is the latest software revision:








And TVOUT library:





And drag and drop the content of TVoutVE-RAZ file to your Arduino libraries folder (Users/Name/Documents/Arduino/Libraries on Windows and Mac. It’s an enhanced TVout library based to Nootropic work.



Knowing Bugs & Troubleshooting & Debug:


-The Smeared stuff on the edges of the panel and holes can be removed simply with 90° alcohol or similar alcohol to washing windows (not acetone or white spirit). " This is due to the Laser cuts.

The Smeared stuff is a mixture of condensed Plexi and Plexi Dust, you can get rid of it with a touch of Alcohol ( I use the Stuff used for cleaning the Windows). "


At the end of your build, if you get a black screen without any pattern and the video output is unable to send a signal to another display, follow this steps to debug your device:

-Check every solders, especially the ones from resistors 750r and 390r, they mix the video and sync signal as composite.

-Check the calibration procedure of the two trimers.

-Check the solders of your 3.5mm jack, especially the Gate Input. Did they connected to the ground via a small piece of wire as described above?

-A good tips to debug DU-NTSC: Load the Arduino code form Telewizor V2. DU-NTSC can display Telewizor’s V2 code (The opposite is not true)

-The only restriction is that the Telewizor V2 code does not handle the Gate entry. So, if you have images on the DU-NTSC screen with the V2 code, then you have a problem with the Gate input (diode soldered in the wrong way, poorly soldered or broken jack). Here’s the code:




-If the screen is able to display a composite signal applied to the external input, but not the pattern of the module, you have a problem on the side of the Arduino or the welds of the components cms.

If the display is unable to display a composite signal applied to the external input, but the module's pattern is good, you have wired the input AV1 and AV2 wires upside down, so reverse the white wires. and yellow. Note that it is common for wire colors to be reversed by Chinese manufacturers. Sometimes AV1 is white, sometimes yellow.

Bill of material: TelewizorV2.xls

Schematic: TelewizorV2-revC - Schematic.pdfDU-NTSC-Build_files/TelewizorV2-revC%20-%20Schematic.pdfshapeimage_1_link_0