DISCLAIMER:
We are not responsible for anything wrong (including electric shocks, malfunctions, fires, accidents involving a soldering iron) that might happen during the assembly of the kit. Everything you do while assembling the kit is at your own risks.
Bill of material:  (including resistor color code)

Resistors: 
-4X 1K (Brown, black, black, Brown, Brown)
-7x 10K (Brown, black, black, red, Brown)
-1x 22K (Red, red, black, red, Brown)
-3x47K (Yellow, violet, black, red, Brown)
-1x82K  (violet, red, black, red, Brown)
-2x 100K (Brown, black, black, orange, Brown)

Capacitors:
-1x 1nF (labelled 102)
-1x 6,8nF (labelled 682)
-1x 15nF (labelled 153)
-1x 22nF (labelled 223)
-1x 10uF

Diodes: 2x 1N4007

LEDs: 2x Red LEDs

IC: 
-LM13700 and dip  16 socket
-LM358 and dip 8 socket

Potentiometers:
Cutoff, Res, Attenuverter: 10K lin 
- 1x 50K or 100K Trimmer (Attenuverter)

Pin headers:
-2 X 10 pin  2,54mm ( 10 pins Eurorack connectors)
-4x mono jacks 3,5mm with nuts.

Assembly instructions (Alex & June revC, Red PCBs)


Ready for populating the main board?
















Step 1: Separate the boards
Do not be afraid, just bend and break

















Step 2: 
The Resistors:
At first, put the 4jX 1K (Brown, black, black, Brown, Brown)





















and the 7x 10K (Brown, black, black, red, Brown)





















And the 1x 22K (Red, red, black, red, Brown)




















The 3x47K (Yellow, violet, black, red, Brown) 





















And finally the 1x82K  (violet, red, black, red, Brown) and 2x 100K (Brown, black, black, orange, Brown)






















Step 3:

The Diodes:
Solder the polarized diode 1N4007, pay attention to their orientation since they're polarized components






















Step 4:

The IC socket. Your board needs to be perfectly horizontal so you can solder them properly :





































Step 4:
The capacitors:
At first, the small, non polarized caps:
-1x 1nF (labelled 102)
-1x 6,8nF (labelled 682)
-1x 15nF (labelled 153)
-1x 22nF (labelled 223)





































Then the 10uF polarized capacitor:
PLEASE BEWARE THE POLARIZATION (See pic below for correct implementation)





















Step 5, the 100K Trimmer:
Solder the Attenueverter’s middle point 100K trimmer






















Step 6:
Batch #1 Errata: SKIP this step if you have a board from BATCH #2.

All the boards from batch #1, labelled on the bottom copper Alex & June V2.b -11-3-2015 suffer from a small missing track.
When you finished soldering the 100k mini trimmer, add a single wire (A cuted leg of a component) between the two pads, figured by the yellow line on the pic. If you don't add this little track, you will be unable to center the Attenuverter pot actions.










Step 7, the Eurorack power connector:
You can use single row, double row of 5 pin headers (2,54mm) or HE10 2X5 connector. 
Cut the number of pins needed. When the pin headers are soldered, immediately verify the solder quality & if you didn't forget any pin.


































Step 6
Potentiometers:

The potentiometers are pc-mounted. 
-Attenueverter, Cutoff & Resonance are 10K B




































Step 7: 
Solder the 4 X mono 3,5mm Erthenvar vertical mount switched Jacks. Solder only one pin of each socket to hold it in place, then you can check for correct alignment before soldering the other pins.




























Step 8: 
Wiring the boards: 
Solder 5 wires between the two boards on the corresponding pads. All the pads are labelled. For example, solder «LP IN» on the main board, to «LP IN» on the Shield board. You can use any kind of wire. 

Important note:
The most difficult step of the assembly are the wiring of the two boards. The most common mistake is the inversion of the pads HP In or LP IN and Out. If you notice that the resonance knob has no effect and the sound is not very typical Alex & June, you probably reversed both pads and the signal is out of the buffer before the LM13700, which can be damageable for IC.



































Step 8: 
IC & Eurorack panel!!!
Now you’re pretty closed to the end of building: Insert the LM13700 and the LM358 on his socket and mount your filter on the panel.
If you use the 2x Knobs Daevis Clone, mount a small piece of heat shrink tube on the potentiometer tree.




































Final step: Attenuverter calibration
The goal is centered the action of the Attenuverter potentiometer.
First patch a VCO on the LP IN, send a Ramp Down modulation from your enveloppe or LFO on the CV IN and patch the filter’s output to your mixer. 
Center the Attenuverter pot as show on the pic, cut totally the resonnance and cutoff (Pots turned to the Left)
In this configuration, gently turn the trimmer to completely mute the sound when the Attenuverter potentiometer is at noon. Now your Attenuverter is centered.

























Enjoy Alex & June!!!!


Hack your own Alex & June:

Alex & June is intended to be the easiest to build and use a minimalist hardware. However, its really easy to hack and add some powerful functions between the main board and the input board (In place the wire cables) 
For example:

-Add buffered inputs with gain control (using a simple TL072 or other OP-Amp as buffer)
-Add a V/oct control Op-Amp or transitors based on the CV input (The Alex & june CV is actually Freq/oct controlled).
-Return to Alex & June V1 sounding: Replace the two Leds by two 1N4148 and remove the R20 47K resistor
-Increase or decrease self oscillation: Turn R20 47 value from 4,7K to 100K and produce savage frequency dividing and multiply (Keep the children out of speakers....)

-Use the High pass IN as an output by adding an Op-amp Buffered output. That produced the cleanest sounds that the actual output using the OTA’s built-in Darlington buffers.


Using Alex & June with non modular line level synth:

Alex & June is now designed to be use the filter with monophonic synths that have a line level (+ /-2Vpp and no DC component filtered) (Shruti, Microbrute etc...) 

Troubleshooting:
-look above about wiring of the two boards.
-The cutoff pot don’t cut totally the sound: Check the IC2 name. If you use an TL072 or something who deliver a small offset, your filter will be a little bit open every time, and cannot be used as a gate. The perfect aop for Alex & June is the old LM358P.
-It’s appears on several panels from AJ2 batch#1 something like small scratchs on the acryl. That can be removed simply with 90° alcohol or similar alcohol to washing windows (not acetone or white spirit). I quote Frank who manufactured the panels:
" This is due to the fact that my shiny new Laser cuts now 45 x 70cm and has a 100W Tube (instead of the 30W i had before) and cuts with a beam that is 1/10 of the diameter before. So i now bring a much higher Energy per Volume into the Plexi.
The Smeared stuff is a mixture of condensed Plexi and Plexi Dust, you can get rid of it with a touch of Alcohol (I use the Stuff my Wife uses for cleaning the Windows). "



















Releases:
-Alex & June V1 RevB: Original release (Green PCBs) October 2013.
-Alex & June V1 RevC: Reduced main board size, changing R1 value and D1/D2 position. (Red PCBs) November 2013

-Alex & June V2b: Adding Attenuverter, adding second signal feedback (increase self-oscillations), Changing pots values (no exotic value as 50K reverse log...) adding smother controls to the Cutoff and Resonance. Now the filter can be used with line-level synth (Volca etc..) without lost of the savage resonance.
Yellow panel: Limited edition of 10 full mounted units, Red panels: official released 1 june 2015